With a kiwi marked off the “to see” list, we were headed to Dunedin (Doo-knee-din) to see if we could spot the rare yellow-eyed penguin. We took the longer, coastal/scenic route thanks to the recommendation of our new kiwi hosts!

The first stop they recommended was Curio Bay where you can sometimes see the Hector’s dolphins (the smallest and rarest dolphins in the world) playing in the surf. Brandon and I walked around the beach and climbed up to a small viewpoint, and were thrilled to spot a couple of dolphins swimming in the distance.

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Way in the distance…

We sat a while and watched before finally tearing ourselves away – but I am so glad we did! As it turns out, a small pod were playing in the bay itself among the swimmers!! I was so excited I threw on my suit and jumped in the water. These little guys were swimming and playing around all the people in the water, and I was within 1 or 2 feet of them! It was one of the most beautiful things I have ever experienced.

I was too excited to get in the water to remember to grab the camera, but it allowed me to focus on the dolphins which was better anyway. And it made for one of the best impromptu afternoons of the entire trip! I am still thrilled about it. (Remember how I said we missed out on swimming with dolphins in Kaikoura? Scratch that! We got to for free!)

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After a quick stop at a lighthouse, we made it to Dunedin and went straight to Sandfly Bay to do some penguin spotting. It took a fair bit of patience, and we almost gave up, but then we saw a couple of these little guys ride (or better yet surf) in on the waves and waddle up the sandy dunes. (It was easier for some than others)

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After that, we went to find some dinner – which was tough since everything was closed for Christmas eve. We took it back to the hostel, toasted with new friends, and were regaled with a tale could have come straight off of “Maury”

Short version: “If your ex of 18 years showed up 5 months ago and you found out that she not only slept with your brother, but secretly had his baby and babies with 6 other men after not wanting a kid with you — would you go back to her? Because my boyfriend did!”

Anyway – we spent the next day exploring the city and walking up what was then the steepest street in the world. Now I believe it is the second steepest.

After that, it was off to Queenstown! (And we drove through a little city called “Beaumont” along the way.